Like the Reverso, one of the advantages of the ATC Guide is the option to use it as an auto-block belaying device if you wish. Using the ATC Guide: Belay (Traditional Mode) I dont own any skinnier ropes, so I wasnt able to test it using using twins, etc. It would feed easily and held short falls with out any slippage. Using it on narrow diameter ropes like an 9.1 mm single rope worked like a charm as well. If you want to really alter the characteristics of the friction, just swap it around so that the brake hand rope does not run through the high friction grooves. Once you have held a fall, it is very easy to lock it off, the ribbed slot provided plenty of friction which you can adjust easily by varying the angle as needed. Midweek after work climbing sessions in Clear Creek Canyon, the ATC worked well holding falls and doing the sport climbing thing. My main workhorse is a 10 mm, and it seemed to suit this diameter very well, and I had no problem feeding or taking in the rope. However, once through the slots ropes up to 10.5 mm feed smoothly and dont bind. Especially, if the rope is new and somewhat stiff. Ropes up to 10 mm fit the slots easily but once you exceed this diameter it can be a struggle to push the rope through. Although tube belay-rappel devices are generally simple pieces of gear, this one has features that arent all that apparent at first sight. The device is designed to do everything and do it well, and thus it eliminates the need to carry extra gear. Its a little bit larger and weighs a little more than the Reverso (81 grams). It looks like it has been tumbled for hours. Its super smooth with no sharp corners or edges. Unique release point built into the unitĪs you would expect from Black Diamond, the device is finished nicely.In Guide Mode it locks if someone falls & has lowering capabilities.High Friction Mode provides two times more friction for greater control and holding power.Regular Friction Mode for normal climbing and rappelling.Capable of handling ropes from 7.7 mm to 11 mm in a variety of adverse situations. Plus, due to the unique release point, you have the ability to lower a climber regardless of weight differences between the climber and the belayer. In Guide Mode, it locks if someone falls. One device to do it all, the new hot forged ATC Guide is a truly full function belay device offing the most versatility of any device on the market - dual friction and belay and rappel modes and a Guide Mode for belaying one or two seconding climbers. So lets start with what Black Diamond states in their '06 catalog: As it would happen my Reverso was starting to show signs of sharpening when I found the ATC Guide on my front porch. I started this year favoring two devices: a Petzl Reverso and a Trango Cinch. Ive had several different figure 8s, a number of Sticht plates, Lowe Tuber, BD ATCs, Petzl Reverso and Reversino, Trango Cinch, Petzl Grigri, as well as the standard collection of oval biners, large pear shape biners, and I've even used the Italian hitch when I wanted to really screw my rope!Īlthough each of them has in some way been an improvement, the quest for the ultimate belay/rappel device was still out of my grasp. Ive lost count of the number of belay/rappel devices Ive lost, worn out or simply decided the time had came to pass company. Black Diamond ATC Guide (7.7 mm to 11 mm): $24.95ĭisclosure: Colorado Black Diamond Sales Rep provided this equipment free of charge.
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